aloha nui loa

After very little consideration, I am declaring that my 40th New Year was my best ever. No doubt there are some fun ones scattered back among the foggy middle decades--the details of 1988 and 1989 on Orange Grove come into focus to take a close second place--but 2012-13 has offered a whole new game to play. At sunset on Monday we went back down the hill to Poipu Beach Park, under downy pink ribbons of sky. Several more folks than usual wandered down with us. The noise from the beach rose as the light faded; it was the melodious electric racket of a 3000-person picnic. We rounded the bend and saw across the first cove a mess of tent canopies, white floodlights, zig-zaging grown ups and kids, sporadic fountains of rainbow sparks from roman candles. Live reggae music drifted across the water on a ruffle of wind. Barefoot, shirtless little scamps on the roadside flicked bang-snaps at us and the aroma of visiting taco trucks wafted around as if on visible cartoon squiggles. Here's Phil's fancy NYE outfit, as he takes it all in:

I was awash in the vibe of easy joy and the quick recognition that this was my kind of party. We staked out what would prove to be the perfect spot amidst the acre of folding chairs and blankets. Phil set up the tripod and other gear while I devoured fish tacos from the truck with the shortest line, then muscled through the sardine-crowd waiting for ice cream in the tiny sundries store below Brennecke's. I returned to just lay in the grass with the stars and breeze in the palms, many strains of pakalolo floating around, drinking Trader Vics Mai Tai from my water bottle, listening to local pop star Anuhea, waiting for the fireworks.  

BOOM! While the last word of Anuhea's "Higher than the Clouds" was still dissipating in the air, the ground rocked and the pyrotechnics exploded behind the palm tree right above us. I knew in the first minute it was the best show I'd ever experience, and it went on for at least another ten. There were no shapes or happy faces, just lots of old school rockets--red/green poppers, amethyst showers, blue scatter shots, rainbow volley of the giant roman candle. The white boomers concussed so loudly I sat up in fear of my organs liquefying. The crowd was entranced. This is what the word spectacular means:

 

I awoke on the first day of the year and forgot to turn on the Rose Parade. It may well be the first time I have not watched a minute of it. Striking really, but that's how it is out here. Instead, we started opening day on the Maha' ulepu Trail (featuring Thomas Straughn's favorite string of beaches).

We finished it on a boat with our old pal Captain Tara, the whale-whisperer. Look what she found for us--and know I've chosen shots which are NOT zoomed or cropped:

 

The word for Wednesday, January 2nd is satisfied. Surely we are sad to leave, knowing how the ache for the place will ebb like the tide but always leave those ridges in the sand where the water washed over it. And I realize that in addition to missing the place so profoundly when we get home, this time I will also be missing my husband, back to work on the night shift. What an exceptional gift it's been, getting to live together like this these weeks, like we haven't for quite awhile. All in all, this time in paradise has been truly that and more. A lesson in settling in, yielding to the unexpected, in discovery, in the splendor of moving through the hours and days with no agenda and no window open to disappointment.

As we go, the palm fronds all whip and bend in one direction, as they did when we came. The blusters and sprinkles returned to bookend our stay. In the middle, we compiled a mountain of impressions to keep us warm and grounded throughout 2013.

 

walks to Poipu Beach: 3
walks to Shipwrecks Beach: 3
trips to Glass Beach: 3
trips to Koloa town: 3
cemeteries seen: 5
lighthouses seen: 2
cairns built (and standing a week later): 1
dangerous meth addicts at large on the Kalalau Trail: 1
rocky scrub hikes in fear of snakes: 0
jumps over pathway cane toads: dozens
soaks in the garden tub: 3
soaks in the adult jacuzzi: 4
cold/flu remedies purchased: 4
t-shirts purchased: 6
naps taken: 5
time-share presentations attended: 0
servings of loco moco: 5
servings of kahlua pig: 6
servings of ono: 4
lava flows: 3
blue hawaiis: 3
cases of beer: 3
mai tais: plenty
friends made from: Brooklyn, Boise, South Dakota, Arizona, Vancouver
weeks until we can return: 65

In sum, I have been blessed enough to spend two months of my life on Kauai, so far. Her treasures do not tarnish.